Teaching your dog the recall, 'Come'. (1)

A solid recall is far and away the most important behaviour we can teach our dogs and particularly our labradors . It’s not the end of the world if your dog won’t sit, drop or stand, but you cannot have a dog that will not come when called.

The stronger the recall, the safer our dog is when off-leash. 
When you are teaching the ‘recall’, make sure you have your dogs attention before you call them.Say their name first and then the ‘cue / command’. “Lucy,...Come”. Don’t call your dog when they are unlikely to come. This will teach them “learned irrelevance” meaning that your recall cue is meaningless. You’ve ruined your recall cue and you’ll have to start again with a different command.
When you hit a difficult phase, increase the value of your treat. Bring out the high value treats or a toy if your dog loves to tug. Make sure that your rewards are meaningful to your dog.
Always take care not to reinforce any behaviours you don’t want. If your dog doesn’t comply with your command, simply say ‘no’, without energy or emotion and start again.
I like to start with ‘Restrained Recalls’. This requires 2 participants. Both of you need to stock up with high value treats or toys. One of you needs to hold your dog while the other one calls,..’Lucy Come’. Each person marks & rewards the dog when they arrive. Now do the same thing, recalling back again. There is nothing more satisfying to a handler than a dog that ‘comes’ as fast as they can run in response to the recall cue.
The recall certainly come more naturally to dogs like labradors. For others, it’s a more difficult behaviour to teach. This can be the result of high distraction, low food drive, lack of desire to please or apathy and low motivation.

Learn to lure your dog

If you want your dog to walk at heel, luring will be your best training option.

When you first lure your dog, it will quite naturally assume that you are offering something to eat.

It will naturally try to take the food treat from your hand. You will want to use this 'drive' to direct your dogs energy into a training exercise. 

If your dog is 'food driven', a piece of kibble as a 'low value reward' may be sufficient as the 'target'. Otherwise, a small piece of sausage or cheese should be adequate as a 'high value reward'. 

Think of a lure as the trail and the food treat as the ‘target’,... and 'reward'. If you want your dog to follow your lure, you need to give them a signal.

Stand either beside or in front of your dog and approach the dog’s nose with your left hand to commence the lure.

Offer the food treat from the flat of your hand, holding the food between your thumb and forefinger.   If your dog is very food driven and tries to snatch the treat food from your hand, withdraw the food by closing your fist, and moving your hand away. 

To commence the 'lure', move your left hand towards the dog’s nose then move the 'target' a short distance. When the dog approaches your hand,...'Mark' (confirm) the movement with 'YES' & reward the dog with the treat. 

The first step is to 'lure' your dog to follow the 'target' and move his head towards your hand.

Mark and reward your dog Immediately when it moves its nose in the direction of the target. 

YES is the reward marker by which you let the dog know that they are doing the right thing.

Follow the marker with the (treat) reward within 1 second of marking the behaviour. Mark and reward any behaviour you want from your dog.