We are taking orders for Delilah's next Chocolate litter due Dec 17.

You are welcome to visit our new pups and see our kennel. 
$1950 on the LIMITED REGISTER 
POA on the Main Register

A $200 deposit will confirm your interest and allocate your name to a Pawling black or chocolate pup

Breeding Chocolate & Black Labradors

Pawling Labrador puppies are available for order.

'Pawling Labradors' is registered with Dogs Qld as breeders of pure bred chocolate and black labrador puppies. We select breeding lines based on skeletal soundness and true Labrador type, striving for excellence in temperament and trainability in all of our Pawling labrador pups. 

Our chocolate and black Pawling labradors live in a rural environment with controlled access to paddocks and dams. We are 2 hours west of Brisbane. All of our Pawling labradors are well socialised and familiar with adults, children and cattle. 

FullSizeRender 3(2).jpg

Buying a Chocolate Labrador puppy from Pawling

We have 6 Bitches and 1 working Sire.  

Your $200 deposit is refundable if the bitch does not deliver the requested gender and / or colour. We only accept the first 6 deposits, 3 male and 3 female per litter. All pups come micro-chipped, vet checked and vaccinated at 6 weeks.

Our labrador pups can be delivered interstate. Air freight via Dogtainers / Jetpets. For example, transport Brisbane to Sydney, costs a buyer approx $200. 

We will deliver the labrador pup to the Brisbane airport free of charge. The client follows through with the transport company regarding collection detail and the transfer of payment.

Please note that our chocolate and black labrador pups cannot be released until 8 weeks of age.


Breeding Chocolate & Black Labradors

Pawling Labrador puppies are available for order.

'Pawling Labradors' is registered with Dogs Qld as breeders of pure bred chocolate and black labrador puppies. We select breeding lines based on skeletal soundness and true Labrador type, striving for excellence in temperament and trainability in all of our Pawling labrador pups. 

Our chocolate and black Pawling labradors live in a rural environment with controlled access to paddocks and dams. We are 2 hours west of Brisbane. All of our Pawling labradors are well socialised and familiar with adults, children and cattle. 

POLLY is Ebony's black girl.

POLLY is staying with us at Pawling. And she will have her first litter in June 2018. Polly is going to be a large girl. She's a very affectionate girl with lots of energy.

We've started daily basis luring and obedience training and she's doing very well, smart.

FUDGE is Ebony's chocolate girl.

Fudge is also staying with us at Pawling. She is Polly's sister. And she will also have her first litter in June 2018. Polly is going to be a large girl.

Fudge is a very bold but quite reserved. She's fearless yet gentle at the same time.

She's also started daily basis luring and obedience training and she's doing very well


A Breeder Code of Ethics

The first 14mths are critical for the skeletal health of your new Labrador Pup.

At Pawlinglabs, we are committed to a code of ethics for registered breeders,... that we 'advance the breed'. This is why we, at Pawling and indeed all good breeders purchase and breed only the most elite dogs. We buy from reputable and proven breeders.

When you purchase from Pawling or any good breeder, you can be rest assured.  When we purchase our breeding bitches, we throughly assess their predisposition to Pra, Eic & Dysplasia. Good breeders determine that the pedigree of all their dogs is immaculate and that there is no history of any genetic (hereditary) flaws in any of the dogs or their generational parents. Our dogs come from the breeding stock from Driftway, Chablais & Lacote kennels. These are world renowned premier breeders.

All Large breeds are 'susceptible' to hip and elbow problems. This susceptibility could be described as hereditary only in the sense that all large breed dogs are predisposed to skeletal problems if they are not properly cared for and particularly up to 14 mths when their growth plates set.  

Managing your pups food intake, body weight,  body fat, exercise and risk factors.

The management of exercise, food and danger issues must be considered with large breeds particularly during the first 14 mths of their lives. We recommend the 'Hills Body Fat Index' as the guide for monitoring your dogs weight and body fat. Please don't feed your pup off your table.

Don't not exercise your pup for more than 5 minutes continuously.

Don't take your young dog on extended walks           until 14 mths of age.

Don't let your pup and adolescent dog jump down    from cars or anything of similar height.

Keep your pup off stairs and slippery surfaces.

All environmental issues must be monitored & regulated with respect to body weight, general health, the speed of growth & overuse prior to growth plates setting. In the spectrum of Labrador puppies, even with the best pedigree there is a small possibility 'one off congenital physiological events'.

Taking this into account, it is critical that the dog owner comply with the guidelines listed above.

Why not take your pup to "Puppy Preschool" and then put them through their paces for 5-10 min each day. This will be sufficient exercise.

Then take your adolescent to 'Dog Obedience classes'. They'll love it and be all the better for it.

Delilah is Clementine's girl

...and she's staying with us at Pawling. 

Delilah is 12 months old and has the foundation of obedience and agility training in place. She has wonderful 'food and prey drive'.  And she is very intelligent & she loves to please.

Delilah is remarkably trainable and that bodes well for her pups.

Delilah will have her first litter in Nov 17. 

Jemima is Kitty's girl

...and she's staying with us at Pawling. 

Jemima is 6 months old and she has commenced her basic of obedience and agility training. She also has wonderful 'food and prey drive'.  And she is very smart.

Jemima is eager for her short training routines, including luring and problem solving. She'll have great pups.

Jemima will have her first litter in May 18. 

Samson is our 2nd stud dog

Samson has come to us from 'Firefield' in Tasmania. He's an extremely athletic and agile boy. Samson was 12 mths old in February. He's level 5 at 'Obedience Training'. Samson has moderate food drive and very high prey drive. He loves to run, tug & retrieve. Samson is a medium size boy at 30kg.

Prey Drive

Prey drive is 'motivation' and it is the (ancient) instinct in a dog to chase and capture prey. Today, this term is associated with the play & training. The modern dog is not a predator. It describes the level of inclination a dog has toward the elements of working, training and playing. A dog with high prey drive will be a wonderful training partner. Labrador puppies generally have high prey drive. They are 'Gun Dogs'. And this is borne out in their desire to tug and retrieve from the time they can walk. However, if you do not train a 'high drive dog' they will be a handful. Just ask the RSPCA. High prey drive and a lack of training is the main reason that people 'dump' their pet. Teaching you puppy to 'play tug' will channel prey drive toward 'retrieving and competing'. Let your puppy win,...mostly. Stimulate this drive and then direct it towards obedience and agility training.

TOOWOOMBA K9                      DOG TRAINING                            ANY BREED,...ANY AGE

ONE ON ONE with your dog 1 -7 days,... Focus & Obedience Training,...  Counter Conditioning,.. Rehabilitation.

DO YOU HAVE A DIFFICULT DOG,...It's never to late, regardless of age. Don't be frustrated,...we can help you.


We will set the foundations of 'good manners & good behaviour'. Then we will show you how to continue to 'proof & reinforce' your dogs good behaviour. 


Many people lack the time to socialise and train their dog. 

Leave you dog with us for 1 to 7+ days @ $50 per day.

For more detail click the K9 Training link in the menu above.


IMG_0433 (1).JPG

BARAK  is our outstanding SIRE. He is available and at your "Service" at $1500




SAMSON & DELILAH (Chocolate)



'Reward based training',... updated 12/12/16


Focus training channels and directs the dogs energy.   Start your training program with focus and touch routines.

HIGH DRIVE IS A BENEFIT NOT A PROBLEM,  high drive (energy) in your dog looks like a problem. But with redirection, re-channelling and focus, the high drive dog is an eager and efficient learner.

DOGS LEARN CONTEXTUALLY NOT HABITUALLY this means that they cannot automatically repeat a routine in a different context. So go back to 'kindy' in an new context until your dog can repeat the discipline in the new context.

'ENERGY' - is emotion & intent. Dogs read intent.  Dogs respond to emotion.

'DRIVE' IS INTRINSIC INTENT THAT YOUR DOG WAS BORN WITH.  Dogs direct their energy into their drive. Low drive dogs appear to have low energy levels.


- 1a. Enclosed courtyard or in house.   1b with distraction.

- 2a. House yard.     2b with distraction.

- 3a. Public area.    3b with distraction.

Progress thoroughly in each context before you move to the next.  When you advance, start 'again' at the beginning.


Reward progression,... 1. Food;     2. Toy;     3. Touch;     4. Achievement.


Luring with a treat introduces your dog to the required behaviour. If your dog has low drive. You will need higher value treats / rewards.

REPETITION TRAINING,... 20 reps minimum for each behaviour

With a marker and food rewards you will get immediate results.

DOGS HAVE A 6 SECOND RECALL, after that...go back to the beginning and start the routine again.

Give the command & let dog work it out for 4 sec,... Affirm or correct within 6 sec.

Your Affirmation or Correction must be energy neutral

'YES IS THE MARKER'  MARK success with 'YES' or a clicker, immediately followed by food reward.

Advance your response to 'GOOD' as a neutral positive. This does not require a treat but communicates success, approval and affirmaton to your dog. This affirmation is essential to a sequence of commands.

Advance to 'NO' as the neutral negative. If the dogs cannot complete the command say NO (unemotionally) and recommence. Never correct a dog for something it does not understand.


Never touch a dog without firstly giving a command. Touch is reward. Never touch a dog beyond what they can cope with. Do not 'hype' them.

Always give a command, "eg sit" and wait for compliance before you touch your dog. Never touch a dog until the command / response has been completed

'Keep the dog calm'

PROBABLE CAUSES OF TRAINING PROBLEMS include,... Anxiety, Boredom, Aggression

PROBABLE SYMPTOMS TO IDENTIFY Include barking, scratching, yawning, star-ing


Stop all star-ing immediately

TRAINERS MUST BE CALM AND CLEAR in their response to a dogs (except with recall)


Don't ever correct your dog if it does not yet understand the behaviour / routine.  Just start the routine again.

USE 1 WORD commands


PERFORM 20 REPS min per routine per session.

Correct Jumping up with a side leash pop, never reward a jumping dog with words, touch or eye contact.

LURING TO HEEL.  Always begin with by Luring with food with hand behind left thigh. This puts your dog in the heel position. Do not release food treat under 3m distance. 

MAINTAINING HEEL - When your dog understands the 'heel routine', you can correct it using leash pressure. If your dog is in front of your left thigh, give the 'heel command' and immediately stop still.  Allow the dog to create leash pressure. This (non-aggressive) back leash pressure, accompanied by "NO" communicates your disapproval. Use this moderate leash pressure to communicate with your dog. Release the leash pressure immediately that the dog 'gives way'. The pressure release teaches the dog to control their own comfort. This pressure release, accompanied by 'GOOD'  indicates your approval to your dog. The dog will quickly learn that the pressure relief is in their control. 

IF YOU HAVE A HIGH DRIVE / ENERGY DOG, your will need to employ the 180 degree technique. This direction reversal teaches the dog to follow,... not lead.


Try changing direction;  90, 180, 360 degree turns, fast & slow. Give the heel command at each change of direction.

TEACH SIT WITH AN UPWARD LURE and very light upward leash pressure. Push the rear down with 2 fingers. Raise the reward hand vertically to lure the head of the dog upwards.  'Yes and reward when the rear hits the ground.

TEACH SIT STAY by stepping 1m (leash length away) & return. Extend the duration. Advance by dropping leash and stepping further away.

TEACH DROP (USA referred as - down). Downward leash pressure or sweep front legs.

TEACH DROP STAY Lure, leave, return and reward.

TEACH PLACE (Mat) / DROP / STAY   This the most useful 'lifestyle command'.  LEAD / LURE dog onto PLACE / MAT, then drop a food reward onto PLACE. When your dog puts 4 FEET  ON PLACE,.. drop the food as a REWARD .

PLACE DROP STAY duration can be up to 3 hrs.

TEACH RECALL  (to an 8 wk old pup) with 'Come or Here at some distance. This is the only high energy, high pitched command. Do the same for and older dog. Use a longline for older more distracted dogs.

TEACH WAIT/STAY @ Doors & gates. Never let a dog enter first.

TEACH 'LEAVE IT' for cars, people, other dogs.  Use a light sideways leash pop

CONTRIVE A RELEASE COMMAND This tells yor dog that they are free and the exercise is complete. Variously, a release command can be  Ok or free or break)

TEATHERING /RESTRAINING regulates your dogs brain. Unsupervised free ranging scrambles the brain.

CRATE TRAINING   All pups need a large crate or Ex-pen. Lure the pup into the crate with food.  After each lure, close the door in the dogs face as tries to leave. Simultaneously, give the command 'Stay /Wait. Don't make this a bad experience. Dogs love their house.


I'm a big fan of 'marker training'. The 'mark' indicates my approval to my trainee labrador. Where my wife uses a 'clicker', to mark the obedience, I simply say 'yes' as the mark  & give a treat immediately the dog performs the request. The 'mark' is the indicator to the labrador that it has gained my approval and 'the treat is coming'. Don't delay between the mark and the treat. Your dog must associate these two things together. Here's  an example of how you can use a 'mark and treat' while giving a verbal command, "drop": 
Ask your dog to "Drop".
When the dog hits the ground, 'mark', then quickly praise and treat. Do this repetitively so that the dog forms the association between mark & treat.  
Your goal is to maintain the anticipation of the treat. This will keep your dog focused. During you training session, treat more often than not. 
Once your dog understands a behaviour and can perform it consistently, in many different locations, with many distractions, your marker signal and treat / reward can reduce in frequency. You won't need to mark/click and treat every time your dog obeys the command. However, it's important to keep your dog in touch with the 'mark'. 
 You can incorporate other rewards like  throwing and fetching a ball or playing tug. These "real life" rewards can be used in place of treats as your dog advanced in your training program. 

Be ready to use high value treats as you add distractions and greater difficulty. When your dog can consistently focus on the task at hand, you can give lower value treats. 
Having determined to use fewer and lower value treats, don't eliminate them altogether. The use of  food treats are essential as rewards, particularly as you advance the level of training. If your dog has 'low food drive', you will have to use 'high value treats' like cheese or chicken. Labradors do not normally have low food drive.


The First Imprint in your labrador pups life occurs during the Socialisation period from weeks 6 - 24. During this time there is 'a fear imprint period from weeks 8 - 11'. And during this time, any traumatic, painful or frightening experiences can have lasting impact on your pup and its ability to confidently relate to people and other dogs. More so than if they occurred at any other time. Unhelpful timidity is often the result of a lack of socialisation. And these dogs regularly become 'fear biters'. To become acceptable companions, labradors pups must be socialised. Socialisation is not in itself training. It is the essential exposure to the outside world. I think of socialisation as exposure to People, Vehicles / Traffic & other Dogs. They need to interact with you, your family, and other people in as many different settings as possible. If they are not exposed to other (immunised) dogs during the Socialization Period, the pup can develop 'dog to dog aggression'. Labradors that are denied socialization during this critical period regularly become unpredictable because they are fearful and this leads to aggressive behaviour. It is during this time, that your dog needs to have positive experiences with people and other dogs. These experiences build confidence and help deal with undesirable timidity. Therefore, you need to socialize and teach your puppy how to interact with people and other dogs in a positive, non-punitive manner. You should gradually introduce your puppy to new experiences, environments, and varieties of people. If you have not socialised you labrador, in most cases, it is not to late to start. The easy answer is to take your pup with you 'everywhere'.

Heppy (Hephzibah)



Charlotte (Charlie)



Kitty (Keturah)